Coat front structure and method of making the same



Oct. 9, 1934. A. M. KRANEFUSS 1,975,669

COAT FRONT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 10, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l Fla. 1

ATTORNEYS Oct. 9, 1934. AQM. KRANEFUSS 1,976,669

COAT FRONT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Jan. 10, 1935 2 $heetsSh eet 2 INVENTOR ALBERT M. KRAN EFU56,

ATTORNEYS Patented Oct. 9, 1934 COAT FRONT STRUCTURE AND METHOD 0 MAKING THE SAME Albert M. Kranefuss, Boston, Mass.

Application January 10, 1933, Serial No. 651,027

5 Claims.

This invention relates to interlining fabrics and more particularly, to a coat front structure which is adapted to be interposed as a stiffening piece in the interior of mens coats between the innermost lining and the facing and outer cloth of the coat.

Heretofore, practically all of the coat fronts offered to the trade or as constructed by tailors, consist essentially of a woven fabric woven from linen thread, jute, cotton thread, or cotton and jute. Upon the breast of these coat fronts, there is usually stitched a stiffening piece, called hymo or hair cloth, consisting of a filling of resilient Wool or stiff hair and cotton warp threads. This hymo or hair cloth is very often not smooth and is apt to curl or buckle when stitched. and does not work well under the tailors iron, during a pressing operation. Frequently, upon the hymo or hair cloth, there is placed a layer of white cot- 20 ton felt, to cover the roughness of the hair felt,

and the felt is stitched thereto. This form of coat front has been employed or many years and still is the principal structure employed today.

In order to obviate the difficulties inherent in the structures of the prior art, this invention and the same time.

More specifically, the objects of my invention are attained by weaving a compound fabric having a continuous Warp of soft threads such as linen, jute, or cotton and jute and a plurality of alternating sections of weft of soft threads such as linen, jute, or cotton and jute and between these alternating sections just referred to are woven sections of weft consisting of soft threads and relatively stiffer threads. The soft threads of the latter weft sections consist of linen, jute, or cotton and jute and the stiffer threads consist of resilient wool threads or animal hairs, such as goat hairs or horse hairs. Spaced across the width of the fabric and lying within the limits of the weft section just referred to are stiff sections and flexible or pliable sections, the stiff sections being spaced apart by the flexible or pliable sections. The stiff section, by a process of weaving may assume the general shape and area denoting a coat front structure.

Referring to the drawings, I

Figure 1 is a portion of the woven fabric so chosen as to represent the weft sections which recur throughout the length of the fabric;

Figure 2 is a cross section of the fabric, taken on line 2-2 of Figure 1; and

Figure 3 is another cross section of the fabric, taken on line 3-3 of Figure 1.

The fabric, shown in Figure 1, is woven so as to be of a width ranging between twenty-four and twenty-seven inches and of a length ranging between fifty and one hundred yards to the bolt. The length is immaterial, since this is dictated by the demands of the trade.

While it is immaterial so far as the finished 5. .9

cloth is concerned which threads are warp and which are filler, for convenience in disclosure the vertically arranged threads shown will be referred to as warp threads while the horizontally arranged threads will be referred to as filler or weft threads.

The warp threads 4 consist of linen, jute, or cotton and jute threads and are soft and are the same throughout the running length of the fabric. These warp threads are formed into the usual shed of warp threads in a manner well known in the art. It will be noted that there are recurring weft sections 1, of a width denoted by the bracket A, said weft sections alternating with other weft sections throughout the length of thefabric. The weft threads 5, in section 1 are soft, being composed of linen, jute, or cotton and jute. The customary weaving process is carried out, that is, each weft thread 5 is woven over and under each thread to the warp, thereby producing a very flexible section of fabric. So much of the fabric is already well known in the art. The weft section denoted by the bracket A is usually twenty-two inches in length.

Coming now to the gist of the invention, it will be noted that there are recurring weft sections denoted by the areas within the brackets B, said weft sections consisting of sections 2 and 3. These weft sections alternate with the weft sections 1. Section 2, in outline, denotes a coat front structure which is very stiff, being woven by having resilient wool weft threads or horsehair weft threads 6 interspersed between the soft weft threads 5, said woolen weft threads or horsehair threads being woven over and under each thread. to the warp within the confines of the section 2, denoting the coat front structure. The section 3, which borders around and lies between the sections 2 is also composed of the same weft threads 5 and 6, but in order to render the same more,

flexible and pliable, the weft threads 6 will skip over and under a plurality of warp threads 4,

usually from three to ten warp threads, depending upon the flexibility desired. In the drawings,

four warp threads have been skipped. The weft :pliable section.

in time.

threads 5, which are soft are woven over and under each thread to the warp. The weft section within the bracket B shows two coat front structure sections 2, spaced apart by the flexible section 3 and enough flexible section is provided to permit of easy cutting. When out out from a length of fabric, the coat front structure 2 will be surrounded by an edging including some of the weft section 1 and some of the weft section 3 and part of the weft section 3 which is cut out may constitute the lapel structure, which iscustomarily more flexible or pliable than the coat front structure per se. Therefore, it will be seen that the coat front structure is formed while the weft section B is being woven, and that'it is made stiffer than the surrounding more flexible and ,When introduced into the coat, this form of coat front structure lies fiat; it presents no deflnite edges between the stiffer sections and more flexible sections, and when ironed, presents no obstacles such as are common with the structures employed in the prior art.

Furthermore, when a tailor purchases a bolt of the fabric, made in accordance with the teachings of this invention, he has everything in one bolt. He has dispensed with the usual bolt of coat front material and with the bolt of hymo or haircloth material, thereby effecting a saving of money. 7

It is preferred to use resilient wool weft threads for the stiffening threads but horse hair or goat hair threads have been used with an equal measure of success in weaving, the only objection that some tailors have to hair material being the tendency of the hairs to work out of the fabric,

In some cases, according to requirements, it has been found necessary totwist together both cotton orlinen or jute threads and the resilient wool or animal hair, to form the weft or filling in the portions requiring stiffening.

I claim: I I

1; As a new article of manufacture, a woven interlining fabric having a continuous warp of soft threads, a pluralityof sections of weft of ,soft threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads and relatively stiffer threads alternating With said first mentioned weft, sections,

said second mentioned weft sections having a plurality of definitely stiffer sections spaced apart by definitely flexible sections,-which are adapted to be cut to form an interlinin h ving a stiff central body portion with flexible edges surrounding the same.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a woven interlining fabric having a continuous warp of soft threads, such as cotton threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, such as cotton threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, such as cotton threads, and relatively stiffer threads such .as horsehair alternating with said first mentioned weft sections, said second mentioned weft sections having a plurality of definitely stiffer sections spaced apart by definitely flexible sections, which are adapted to be cut to form an interlining having a stiff central body portion with flexible edges surrounding the same.

3. As. a new article of manufacture, a woven interlining fabric having a continuous warp of soft threads, such as cotton threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, such as cotton threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, such as cotton threads, and relatively stiffer threads such as resilient wool threads, alternating with said first mentioned weft sections, said second mentioned weft sections having a plurality of definitely stiffer sections spaced apart by definitely flexible sections, which are adapted to be cut to form an interlining having a stiff central body portion with flexible edges surrounding the same.

4. For use in'wearing apparel, a stiffening interlining cut from a woven fabric havingv a continuous warp of soft threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads and relatively stiffer threads alternating with said first mentioned weft sections, said second mentioned weft sections having a plurality of definitely stiffer sections spaced apart by definitely flexible sections, said interlining having a stiff central body portion with flexible edges surrounding the same.

v5. A coat front structure consisting of a piece of woven fabric comprising integral body and lapel portions, cut from a woven fabric having a continuous warp of soft threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads, a plurality of sections of weft of soft threads and relatively stiffer threads alternating with said first mentioned weft sections, said second mentioned weft sections having a plurality of definitely stiffer sections spaced apart by definitely flexible sections, said body portion being the stiff section ALBERT M. KRANEFUSS. 

